Salkantay Trek Day 3 : From Coffee Plantations to Santa Teresa Hot Springs
Early Morning Start
Our third day on the Salkantay Trek began with an early wake-up call at 5:00 AM when hot tea was sent to our tent. The soothing background noise of the nearby river had lulled us to sleep, leaving us refreshed despite its volume.
The plan for 3rd day of Salkantay Trek included a mix of activities: a short section of the Inca Trail, a visit to a coffee plantation, and a mountain crossing before meeting Helen and Chris in Santa Teresa.
Exploring Coffee Plantations
As we left the camping village of La Playa, the road was lined with coffee plantations. Not far into the hike, we came across a sign marking the distances to various landmarks:
- Hidroelectrica (11.9 km)
- Llactapata, an Inca site offering panoramic views of snow-capped peaks and Machu Picchu.
A Stop at a Local Coffee Farm
Our first stop was a small coffee farm where we were invited to participate in roasting and grinding coffee beans. It seems to me that the freshly brewed coffee had a sour taste but lacked aroma. Despite this, Tom bought two bags coffee beans just to support the local business.
Further along the route, other plantations advertised “Starbucks Coffee” and “Colombian Coffee,” though we learned Starbucks also uses Peruvian coffee beans.
The Climb to Llactapata
Leaving the coffee farm, we pressed on for a steady uphill climb. The lower altitude made breathing easier, and the dirt trail was a welcome relief from the rocky paths of the first two days of Salkantay trek.
Halfway up the mountain, our guide caught up with us, drenched in sweat—quite a contrast from his relaxed demeanor on Day 1! Together, we continued toward Llactapata, an ancient Inca site with breathtaking views.
Llactapata Ruins and Postcard Views
At the top of the pass, we reached Llactapata. This site offered an incredible vantage point where we could see three snow-capped mountains and Machu Picchu in the distance.
- Machu Picchu: Nestled between Machu Picchu Mountain (“Old Mountain”) and Huayna Picchu (“Young Mountain”).
- Ruins Rediscovered: First identified by Hiram Bingham in 1912, Llactapata remained unexplored until a British expedition in 2003 fully revealed its significance.
Our guide explained that ancient Inca astronomers used this site for stargazing. With clear skies, we spotted terraced fields on the backside of Machu Picchu and even saw visitors walking around through binoculars.
A Steep Descent to the Valley
The descent from Llactapata was a challenging series of steep, muddy switchbacks. Trekking poles were essential to navigate the tight and slippery paths safely.
At the base of the mountain, we crossed a toll bridge over the roaring Urubamba River before a flat stretch of road led us to a fish farm — this must be where they get the trout for ceviche?… We continued for another 10 minutes and arrived at the small bus our guide had arranged for us.
Santa Teresa Hot Springs: Relaxation Rewarded
A bumpy 50-minute ride along the Urubamba River brought us to Santa Teresa. The hot springs were a welcome sight, and our tents were already set up nearby.
For just 10 Sol (about 4 CAD), we soaked in crystal-clear waters flowing from the mountains. With four pools of varying temperatures, this was the perfect way to unwind after three days of trekking.
A Culinary Delight
After walking for half a day, covering the distance of one and a half days, we had earned our lunch! The appetizer: Mango Ceviche.
Lunch was just the four of us and the guide, while Helen and Chris were still exploring the town of Santa Teresa. They later found that our chef’s cooking was far superior to the local restaurant. After all, our chef was a culinary school graduate.
The pumpkin soup was delicious. The fried rice, with different ingredients and flavors each day, showed how dedicated the chef was.
Dinner later that evening featured freshly baked pizza, salads, and healthy sides. Although the presentation wasn’t as polished as usual (perhaps the chef was distracted by the relaxing atmosphere!), the meal was still a highlight.
Evening Fun: Card Games and Laughter
Before dinner, our guide introduced us to Cusco-style card games. We laughed so hard during a game of SLAP that our throats and cheeks ached more than our legs!
After three intense days of hiking, the mix of stunning scenery, delicious food, and fun company made Day 3 an unforgettable chapter of our Salkantay Trek. Here is my Alltrails record of Day 3.
