Sunday afternoon, we left our home in Vernon and drove about 2.5 hours into BC’s interior, heading straight for Glacier National Park of Canada. Our plan: camp at Illecillewaet Campground for the night and tackle one of the park’s most famous – and most punishing – short hikes the next day: the Hermit Trail.
A Night at Illecillewaet Campground
Illecillewaet Campground is one of the park’s three frontcountry campgrounds (the others are Loop Brook and Mount Sir Donald). It’s first-come-first-served only, so you won’t find it on the Parks Canada reservation website.
Compared to the big, family-friendly campgrounds in other national or BC parks, this one feels wilder and more compact. It’s right by a river, which makes it a little damp, but we were perfectly happy with our spot – and there was cell service! Maybe because it’s close to the park office? The office is staffed from 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. There’s even a “dining shelter,” basically a wooden cabin with tables, chairs, and a wood stove where you can cook or heat meals. Bear-proof food storage lockers are available. The bathrooms have flush toilets (a big plus for me!), but no showers or hot water.
Camping fees are just $18 CAD per night, but if you want a campfire you need pay a fire permit ($13.50/night), which includes unlimited firewood. Sadly, the wood was hard to burn – maybe because of the rain the day before, or just the riverside humidity.
Just a short walk from camp are the Glacier House Monument and several trailheads for classic day hikes. We hiked Abbott Ridge Trail and Great Glacier Trail from here before. Before dinner, we took a short stroll to the Red Chair viewpoint. Most hikers had already returned and the parking lots were emptying. As evening settled in, the sound of the river grew louder.
The Hermit Trail: Short, Steep, Stunning
Glacier National Park is known for steep trails, and the Hermit Trail is the steepest of them all: 2.8 km with 830 m of elevation gain – an average grade close to 28%, with barely a flat section in sight.
Trailhead: 1,294 m elevation, 1.5 km east of the Rogers Pass Discovery Centre
Hermit Trail Route: The first half is a relentless zigzag through dense forest – head down and climb.
Treeline: Around 1,900 m, the views burst open: peaks and glaciers!
End: A Parks Canada “End of Trail” sign, right by the wide-open alpine bowl of Hermit Meadows. There are eight backcountry tent pads here – the basecamp for climbing Mount Tupper, Hermit Mountain, Mount Rogers, or Swiss Peak.
We started Hermit Trail hike from the roadside trailhead on Monday morning. The first few meters were flat gravel, then quickly turned into the familiar root-and-rock forest floor with a sharp incline. The temperature was set to hit 35°C that day, but starting early kept us cool in the shade.
A cold mountain stream runs alongside the forest section, so with a water filter you don’t need to carry too much water up. Orange-red Indian paintbrush flowers added some color along the way. Pushing through the treeline, we finally saw distant glaciers and jagged peaks. In the rocky upper section, the park has built sturdy stone steps from local rock – a small miracle given the steepness. There’s also a short rope-assisted scramble. After almost two hours of steady climbing, we arrived at the 2,125 m alpine meadows.
Hermit Meadows
Hermit Meadows is a broad alpine bowl, with Mount Macdonald towering above. Scattered boulders give it a “stone basin” feel. Small creeks wind through the grass, wildflowers are everywhere, and to the south you can spot Abbott Ridge – a hike we did three years ago.
We found a perfectly flat slab of rock as our “lunch table,” and enjoyed snacks with a view of snow peaks, glaciers, and alpine blooms.
In Hermit Meadows Campground, we were met by the Glacier National Park’s most iconic resident: a stunning mountain goat. With a shaggy white coat and impressive horns, it moved with a quiet confidence, completely unbothered by our presence. The encounter was a powerful reminder of how special it is to share this wilderness with its true inhabitants.
The Way Down & Gear Tips
If there’s one thing I didn’t love about the Hermit Trail, it’s the descent. It’s brutal on the knees, so trekking poles are a lifesaver. We passed a few backpackers heading up for an overnight in the meadows. Back at the trailhead, the parking lot was completely full. Our cooler with cold drinks was waiting, and nothing tasted better.
We stopped at Rogers Pass Discovery Centre on the way back – not for the exhibits, but to wash my face. My skin was crusted with salt from all the sweat!
Hermit Trail Hike stats:
- Distance: 6.3 km round trip (my AllTrails app showed 7.6 km because I wandered at the top)
- Elevation gain: 831 m
- Time: 4–5 hours
- Difficulty: High (constant, steep climb)
- Gear: Trekking poles, sunscreen, sturdy hiking boots; bring a water filter if you want to refill from creeks. Check 10 Backcountry Essentials
Other Classic Hikes in Glacier National Park
If you’ve got more time, spend 2–3 days hiking here:
- Abbott Ridge: Long climb with wide-open glacier and mountain views.
- Great Glacier: Ends at the foot of a massive glacier, with powerful meltwater streams.
- Asulkan Valley: Combines canyon scenery with a glacier basin.
- Glacier Crest / Balu Pass: Best for summer wildflowers; note that after mid-July, Balu Pass requires a minimum group of four or you risk a $150 fine.
Hermit Trail Quick Tips
- Best season: July-September (snow-free months)
- Passes: Parks Canada day pass or Discovery Pass required
- Camping: Illecillewaet or Loop Brook campgrounds are great bases for day hikes
- Safety: Carry bear spray; watch the weather – mountain conditions change fast
Where to Stay When Hiking in Glacier National Park
If you’re here for the Hermit Trail or other hikes, you can camp in the park or stay in nearby towns. The three frontcountry campgrounds (drive-in) are:
- Illecillewaet Campground: 60 sites, flush toilets, kitchen shelter, food lockers; close to trailheads and Glacier House. First-come-first-served only — when we arrived Sunday at 5 p.m., there were only 3–4 sites left.
- Loop Brook Campground: 20 sites, similar facilities but smaller, a few km farther from Glacier House; close to the Trans-Canada Highway.
- Mount Sir Donald Campground: Closed for now due to a spruce beetle outbreak; may reopen in the future.
For campground details, check the Parks Canada website.
Prefer a hotel? Your best nearby options are (affiliate link):
- Revelstoke: ~45 minutes away
- Golden: ~1 hour away
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